🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary honour.